It's been awhile since I put anything on this blog. I've been really busy. I've seen like five or six films in the last week, most of them for work. I've grade 45 student essays . . . I hate giving grades. My honors students got their essays back. They really seemed to like me, but honors students always hate you after they get their grades (some of them got B's).
I haven't surfed much, mostly because of the storm conditions: poo-poo in the water from the run-off, small swell, and very choppy, so I thought I'd write about surfing a little. The following is an "ideas-draft" I did yestereday morning: just think of it as a little of my own "poo-poo" being put in the water.
Feel Panic Or . . .
Surfing is a dangerous sport, but for most of us, it’s not all that dangerous. It sometimes feels like it’s dangerous, but it’s mostly not dangerous. Yes, there are sharks, riptides, rocky bottoms, and angry locals, but, in general, we have to remember that we are in a liquid medium and not prone to being injured in the way a skater or motorcycle rider is. Usually, we are okay. Sometimes we feel like we’re dying, or as Gerry Lopez put it in “Step Into Liquid,” “maybe you die a little,” but we don’t die, not really.
But what of this dying a little? What is that about? I have a strange love-hate relationship with the “wipe-out” experience. I find myself thinking of “getting worked” with mixed feelings. When I have made a mistake, fallen, and now am being tossed around, held under, dragged, flung, rag-dolled by a wave, I often find it can be an incredibly sublime experience. In those moments when I am held under the water, clearly powerless, totally abandoned to fate, I feel a kind of peace descending on me.
Of course, that is the only option at that moment: let the peace descend, or feel panic. Every decent-sized wave offers the potential for this sort of existential experience, but there is no predicting, exactly, when it will come. You paddle into a wave, you hold up, or drive down the line trying to make a section, or even pull into a tube, and you find suddenly, that something has gone wrong. Even then, you don’t know if you will face the panic-peace moment, because it could be that everything will be okay; you will dive through to the bottom of the wave, and emerge out the back untouched, free, none the worse for your mistake.
So, when every feel-panic-or-let-peace-descend moment comes, it comes in a sudden realization—a realization that you no longer have any control over what is about to happen to you—a moment when you will choose whether or not to panic, or let what’s going to happen just happen. If you panic, you make things worse: you expend energy, and, more importantly, you expend oxygen, and you torture yourself trying to break free from something that will not let you go. This is a beginner’s mistake, to fight and struggle rather than to let go, and it makes the experience anything but sublime.
But the other option is to let go, and let peace descend. I heard one surfer describe as “tipping yourself back inside your head.” That’s what it feels like, you deliberately choose to let go, to tuck yourself, your mind, in some deep, dark, safe place while you ride out the event. You sort of go numb. You feel like you’re dead. You’re conscious, in a way that makes you aware only of your existence, DesCartes’ thinking man in the oven; there is no up or down, no right or wrong, no choices to make, you are pure being. It is something like the petit mort, except that you are actually alone, and somewhere, deep inside, you are aware of the real violence you are experiencing, and, no matter what, you do die a little.
Yet there is something liberating about all this. In those moments, those moments when I’m being tossed, and dragged, and shoved under shelves in the reef, those moments when I’m “tomb-stoning,” my surfboard sticking straight up through the surface of the waves like a tombstone, me tethered to it, twelve feet below the surface, being dragged by the force for the current, unable to move my arms, let alone surface for air, that I feel incredibly liberated. For those few moments nothing matters—not what kind of father and husband I am, not how many articles I’ve published, or how many dead languages I can read, or how eloquently I can speak, nothing at all—nothing--except how long I can hold my breath, and whether or not I can resist the urge to panic, and just let peace descend.
It is horrifyingly sublime.
This is not to say that I seek out this experience. On the contrary, I try, at all costs, that is, at all costs short of not surfing, to avoid it. It is unpleasant. It is terrifying. At Scotchman’s, where I like to surf on south swells, you get out of your car on a cliff above the beach. On a big day you can hear the surf’s thunder from the moment you get out of your car. I hear it, and I feel sick. I’m no hero. I’m no thrill-seeker.
When I go to the Surfline web-site and see a big storm in the South Pacific, and when they start predicting surfing in the eight, ten, or . . . range, I can’t sleep. I have nightmares about the next day’s swell. I think most surfers have dreams of such swells, but I admit it, I have nightmares. For all the sublimity of the experience, I don’t want to face the horror.
Still I do, because when you do make one of those waves—when you drop in on it, set your rail, and shoot down the line to safety—you feel an exhilaration, a sense of life, a sense of involvement, i.e., of being fully involved with your own existence, that doesn’t seem to have a rival.
How often have a I seen a surfer at the end of one of the terrifying rides shoot his/her arm into the air in what looks like a victory salute? But this is not the kind of exhilaration one gets from winning the Tour de France, or climbing Pike’s Peak, or scaling Half Dome. Those “victories” have an aura of conquest about them, but most surfers would say their exhilaration feels more like the joy of “survival,” and there is something sublime about that, too.
But that moment of exhilaration would not be possible, or at least would not be as intense, if we had not experienced our fair share feel-panic-or-let-peace-descend moments. It is those moments beneath the waves, those moments spent getting beat up, dragged, spun, and held down that make the moments of gliding safely to a wave’s shoulder seem that much more sublime.
I have not experienced many moments in life that I would describe as feel-panic-or-let-peace-descend. events This is probably due to the fact that I usually feel like there is at least one more thing I can do before I have to accept what will come. This probably explains why I experience so little peace in my one-land, non-surfing life. I’m always in a semi-panic mode, looking for one more thing I can do to avoid some kind of disaster, and, admittedly, most of these disasters are relatively minor.
I do remember that feeling, about four years ago, when my wife, Barbara, called me to meet her at the hospital. She was pregnant, just about to enter her third trimester, and she called me at work. I could hear the emotion in her voice, a sense of sadness and panic stuck in her throat, telling me that she had not felt the baby move for several days, and the doctor couldn’t find the heartbeat, so she had been sent to the hospital where they had better equipment. It only occurred to me later that day that the superior equipment was only part of the reason she was being sent to the hospital.
As I drove to meet her there, I was trying to make a deal with God, something which counts for “prayer” with most people, a sign that I had not yet reached a full-on feel-panic-or-let-peace-descend moment, hoping still for a miracle of sorts. My deal-making, I mean “prayer,” was a full-on sign that I was fighting, still leaning towards panic rather than peace. But as I stood beside Barbara, who was lying prone on an examination table while a technician performed an ultrasound, and as I stared at the screen, at a vague, lifeless little shape on the ultra-sound monitor, I realized that there was nothing I could do, this little image of death expressing everything we can really know about life, that ultimately we are not in control , and that in those moments all our advanced academic degrees, publications, clever observations, and sophisticated arguments mean nothing, there is only our existence in all its brutishness, and, in the midst of all my pain, pain for that little lifeless, mostly-unknown male child, pain for my wife, pain for myself, and maybe pain for us all, I knew, in the midst of, in spite of, and maybe because of that pain, a kind of horrifying peace.